This is one of the most beautiful regions on the Korean Peninsula.
Korea often calls itself the ‘Land of Morning Calm’ and looking at the landscape here in the Kumgang region, it’s not difficult to see why.
It’s also not difficult to understand why tourists, both foreign and domestic, flock to Mt Kumgang to enjoy the coastal waters of the East Sea and marvel at the stunning rocky outcrops which burst through the ground to create one of the most stunning natural wonders in Korea.
The region is known by most as ‘Kumgangsan’ or ‘the Diamond Mountain’ however it is known by other names, depending on the season.
During spring, when flowers are in full bloom and the mountains are cloaked in crisp, clear air, they are known as Kumgangsan.
During summer when the slopes are laden with green grasses and plants and the low clouds drift silently around the peaks, the area is known as Pongnaesan (봉래산), referencing the legends of spirits inhabiting the area.
As Autumn draws in, the area is known as Pungaksan, or ‘the mountain of coloured leaves’ as the bright green flora turns orange and red.
During winter, they take the name Stone Bone Mountain, or Kaegolsan, as thick snow coats the mountainous peaks.
However, they are most commonly, and collectively referred to as Kumgangsan.
Kumgangsan
Kumgangsan is a vast region in Kangwon province on the south-eastern side of the DPRK, and as such it’s difficult to say for certain what to expect on a tour here – generally a trip to Mt Kumgang will include plenty of hiking and enjoying the outdoor scenery.
But, here are some highlights you might hit upon during your visit.
Travelling from Wonsan
Departing the city of Wonsan on the east coast, we’ll depart south along the 108km long road that links the city with the heart of the Kumgang region.
Enroute, well pass by the picturesque Lake Sijung before possibly getting a rare chance to visit Chongsokjong – a 1km long system of hexagonal basalt columns on the coastline. The four most prominent of these are named Sason and legend has it that four spirits play atop them.
Finally, we’ll arrive at the Kumgangsan Hotel in Outer Kumgang – opened in 1958, the hotel is one of the oldest not just in the region, but in the country, and the perfect base for an adventure in Kumgang.
Outer Kumgang
Some of the most stunning sites in Kumgangsan are in Outer Kumgang.
The region is divided into three sections; Sea Kumgang is here: incorporating the coastal regions. Outer Kumgang covers this area and includes most of the lower-lying areas. Inner Kumgang is the moniker given to the highest mountains and deepest valleys located further inland.
There’s so much to see in Outer Kumgang, but here are the highlights:
10 kilometres away from the Kumgangsan Hotel sits a stunning array of natural rocky outcrops known by Koreans as Manmulsang.
There are dozens of rock formations strewn around this area so I won’t go into detail about all of them, but some of Manmulsang’s highlights include the
Mansang pavilion; guarding the gateway to the region it’s situated near a natural spring and sits 600m above sea level.
The Manjang spring is famed for its legendary water. Local mythology purports that the water from the spring has fountain-of-youth-like qualities.
The story goes that a local couple in their sixties trekked high into the mountains of Kumgangsan, drank the water, and recovered their looks from the day they were married.
The region makes for a breath taking hiking opportunity and many of the rocks and outcrops come accompanied with similar legends and myths.
Just west of the coastline sits a large lake named Samil lagoon. Considered one of the eight natural wonders of the eastern region, the lake takes its name from a legend that a king once stopped at the lagoon on a journey, but was so taken by the scenery that he stayed for three days. Hence, the name Sam-il, or Three-Days, was given to the lake.
The lagoon is 0.79km in area and between 9-13 metres deep. In the middle of the lake is the Wau islet.
The Tanpung restaurant on the riverbank makes for a handy lunch stop, and its location near the boating lake makes the Samil lagoon a fantastic stop on a tour around Kumgangsan.
The foothills between outer and inner Kumgang are home to one of the most well-known and most stunningly beautiful sites that Kumgang has to offer. The Kuryong Waterfalls and Pools.
A 12km drive from the hotel, followed by a 4km hike into the mountains will bring you to the Kuryong valley and its various notable sites.
Firstly you’ll reach the Pibong and Mubong falls.
The Pibong waterfall is one of the four largest in Kumgang and takes its name, Pibong, from its shape reminiscent of a phoenix tale.
Mubong is located further up, looking like a phoenix taking flight, hence the name Mubong.
Continuing up the path you’ll reach the Kuryong Falls and the Kuryong Pool. The Kuryong Falls are one of three largest waterfalls in Korea with a cliff face stretching 100m up with a sheer drop of water which falls a full 74 metres into the Kuryong Falls.
Continuing further north, you’ll reach the upper pal pools, or eight pools.
As with many places in Korea there are plenty of legends and myths associated with the area. So, let’s take a short break to cover one of the fairy-tales of Kumgang.
Fairy Legend
One day, a young man was carrying firewood back from the pine forests down the slopes of Kumgangsan.
Stopping for a rest, he encountered a deer running from a hunter. Her helped the deer escape the hunter and returned home.
That night he had a dream. A spirit told him in a dream to return to the Upper Pal Pools where he saved the deer.
Coincidentally, this is where the fairies of Kumgang gathered to bathe. The spirit told the young man to go up there and steal one of the fairies flying gowns so it could not return to the heavens.
So, the boy went up and took one of the flying gowns while the fairies were playing. This meant one fairy was unable to return to the sky.
The story goes that they later married and had a son and a daughter, and one day, the man revealed to his wife that he had stolen her flying gown.
She immediately took it back and returned to the heavens with her children. The spirit spoke to him in a dream once again, and following these instructions, the man returned to the Pal pools where he was able to ride up to the heavens to reunite with his wife and children.
The culminates with the family returning to the earth and living the rest of the days in the picturesque surroundings of inner Kumgang.
Sea Kumgang
Haekumgang, or Sea Kumgang, is one of the three primary regions of Kumgangsan and is located on the coast between Kumgang and the East Sea.
Providing the appearance of mountains rising from beneath the water it is another of the most significant scenic spots in the Korean Peninsula.
Notable sites include:
Underwater Manmulsang, so named for its resemblance to the aforementioned Manmulsang. A myriad of strange rock formations rise and dip beneath the waves providing natural lagoons for the schools of fish which dart about in the crystal water of sea Kumgang.
Sol Islet is a rocky island covered with pine trees, hence the name, with Sol meaning Pine.
Inner Kumgang
Inner Kumgang is the name given to this region of Kumgangsan. Many of the tallest peaks, deepest valleys and most stunning natural scenery are locked away in the deep mountains of inner Kumgang.
Whilst there are so many places worth mentioning a typical visit to inner Kumgang may follow a path like this:
Arriving in inner Kumgang from the southern side, you’ll likely first visit the Phyohun Temple.
Hidden amongst the peaks and valleys of Kumgangsan, the Phyohun Temple was constructed in 670 CE and consisted of 20 buildings, although today, only a handful of halls and pavilions remain.
A classic example of a Korean Buddhist temple, it is one of four temples in Kumgang alone, along with Jangan, Singye, and Yujom temples.
Notably, the Phando Hall and Osil Pavilions were purportedly designed to pray for the wellbeing of the royal family.
The Manpok valley runs through inner Kumgang and is dotted with various pools and ponds – hence its name, Manpok, meaning 10,000 falls.
The area is fantastic for hiking and is favourited by local and foreign tourists as an especially beautiful region of Kumgangsan.
Finally you’ll reach Piro Peak at the heart of inner Kumgang. The highest of the 12,000 peaks of Kumgangsang, Piro is 1,639 metres above sea level and there are numerous climbing routes.
However, perhaps one of the greatest incentives to climb Piro is the Myogil Buddha Statue. This statue of a sedentary Buddha is carved into the rock face atop one of the country’s highest mountains.
Although temples dot Korea as a whole, there’s clearly something special about Mt Kumgang which drew the Buddhist followers of old to establish a significant presence here.
And as the sun sets below the horizon of the east sea and the majestic mountains are bathed in the light of the burnt orange sky, no doubt you’ll understand what truly sets Kumgangsan apart from the rest of Korea.
